Sabiha Apaydın Gönenli has emerged as one of the foremost players in the Turkish gastronomy industry and has made significant contributions to the development of leading brands. Her extensive experience and knowledge are now used in her role as a management consultant in the food and beverage industry. A dedicated advocate of the global and Turkish natural wine movement, Sabiha is committed to promoting local grape varieties, old vineyards, and broader wine culture. An example of this determination is her involvement in many projects to promote Anatolian grapes and wines at home and abroad.

She founded the ‘Root Origin Soil’ conference, which is an important event in terms of viticulture and enology, especially for Anatolian varieties. As a certified WSET instructor, she also teaches ‘Wine and Business Management’ courses at the Istanbul Culinary Arts Academy, combining her academic knowledge with industry practices.

Additionally, her key involvement in the Heritage Vines of Türkiye initiative and member of the Slow Wine Coalition and Old Vine Conference underlines preserving and promoting viticultural heritage.

Her contributions aim to give the cultural and historical richness of Anatolian viticulture the value it deserves.

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He is a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) trained architect and a wine enthusiast who has been holding themed tastings every month for 18 years with his tasting group in Ankara. He publishes nearly 4,000 tasting notes, mostly on Turkish wines, on the Cellar Tracker portal.

He contributed to Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson’s The World Atlas of Wine in its 7th and 8th editions, Wine Grapes written by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, and the 4th edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine on Turkey. Many of his articles have been published on Jancisrobinson.com.

In 2015, he was honored with the Geoffrey Roberts Award under the auspices of The Vintners’ Company for supporting emerging wine regions. This project’s aim is to reveal Turkey’s disappearing vineyards, grape species, and regions. He supports the Yaban Kolektif initiative which he co-founded with Levon Bagis.

He has been working as a jury member at the International Wine Challenge (IWC), one of the most prestigious wine competitions in the world, since 2015. He represents Turkey on behalf of the Old Vine Conference, which was initiated under the leadership of Sarah Abbott MW and whose aim is to draw attention to old grapevines and vines. He is also a member of Slow Food and Slow Wine Coalition.

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Birds for Sustainable Agricultural Development

This talk will focus on repositioning bird species not as random visitors to our agricultural landscapes, but as active architects of sustainable agricultural development and ecosystem health. In the shadow of the damage caused by the global climate crisis and industrial agriculture, bird populations in our fields are, in fact, one of the clearest indicators of soil health.

Birds will be placed at the center of this talk because they are among the most sensitive and visible “indicator species” of natural processes. However, throughout the talk, when the term “birds” is used, the audience should remember that it refers not only to birds themselves, but to biodiversity as a whole: from soil microorganisms and insects to local flora and fauna, and to the other members of wildlife.

This agroecological vision, shaped under the guidance of birds, will be discussed along four main axes, with particular attention to how it can restore nature while also creating new economic value for farmers:

1. Biodiversity and Climate-Friendly Agriculture:
The presence of birds in an agricultural area is one of the strongest signs that insect populations are in balance, plant diversity is maintained, and soil microbiology remains active. The ecosystem services provided by birds and by all the ecological elements they represent—such as natural pest control, pollination, and seed dispersal—form the basis of a climate-resilient agricultural model that reduces dependence on synthetic inputs and protects carbon sink areas.

2. New-Generation Agroecological Farming:
New-generation agriculture, which is based on working in harmony with the entire web of life rather than dominating nature, rejects uniformity above all else. Polyculture systems supported by living hedgerows, habitat corridors, wooded areas, and water sources—where birds, as well as bees, beneficial insects, and small mammals, can shelter, feed, and reproduce—represent a holistic approach that safeguards the “root and origin” health of the soil.

3. Agroecology from the Perspective of New Quality and Brand Development in Agriculture:
Protecting ecosystem integrity is not only an ecological responsibility, but also a strong competitive advantage in the marketplace. Certifications and production models such as “Bird-Friendly,” which demonstrate that biodiversity is protected during production, offer one of the most tangible ways to connect with conscious consumers seeking nature-friendly products. In this sense, agroecology is a strategy for creating reliable, innovative agricultural brands with a story, while also adding value to agricultural products.

4. The Human Resource of Transformation: The Agroecological Farmer and Capacity Building:
An agroecological transformation requires a change not only in farming methods, but also in the role of the farmer. Our aim is not merely to disseminate agroecological practices, but to cultivate the “agroecological farmer” who will be able to manage this process. At this point, capacity building, ecosystem literacy, and technical knowledge among new-generation farmers are of vital importance. Empowering farmers as guardians and observers of the ecosystem is a fundamental condition for the sustainability of agricultural development.The path to protecting our roots and our soil lies in listening to the sky and to the winged ambassadors in our fields. For when a bird sings, it gives voice to all living beings above and below the soil. The approach of “Birds for Sustainable Agricultural Development” is both a call for ecological restoration and a vision for rural development shaped by new-generation agroecological farmers.

Despite Everything: The Historical Heritage of Winemaking in Lebanon

The development of civilization as we know it began with humankind’s transition to settled life. Among the factors that enabled this transition were agricultural species and perennial plants that yield crops over many years, such as vines, olive trees, and fruit trees.

Soon, humankind recognized a distinctive property of the fruit of the vine: grape juice could rapidly transform into an entirely different liquid — wine.

This text addresses selected chapters in the history of wine around the Mediterranean, together with their effects and consequences.

Archaeological research has shown the following:

The Rise of Wine among Ancient Civilizations across the Mediterranean Basin

Figure 1. Map showing the historical spread of wine among ancient civilizations across the Mediterranean basin.

Early Archaeological Findings and Mediterranean Wine History

Byblos, the Levant, and a Lebanon-Focused Historical Timeline

Origins of the Vine According to Genomic Studies

An article published in WineAnorak, referring to a study published in Science, states the following: when the genomes of thousands of grapevines were sequenced, it became clear that the grapevines existing today have two distinct origins.

• Origin 1: Vines of Caucasian origin. These vines, from Georgia, Armenia, and other countries of the Caucasus, are reported to have begun developing approximately 11,000 years ago.
• Origin 2: Vines of Near Eastern / Levantine origin. This lineage is also reported to have begun developing approximately 11,000 years ago.

Source: Vignes et Vins au Liban – 4000 ans de succès, Jean-Pierre Bel.

Bornova Misketi: Terroir, Style, and the Table

In her talk, sommelier and Vino Locale co-founder Seray Kumbasar will focus on the story of Bornova Misketi from past to present; on how producers in the region have come together to reclaim this heritage grape; and on how it is finding new life at the table through different pairings and interpretations in the world of gastronomy.

The research process, which began with the excitement created by ancient grape seeds discovered at Yassıtepe Mound in Bornova, also includes a collaborative study aimed at understanding which grape family these seeds belong to and whether they have any connection with Bornova Misketi.

Last year, following Seray Kumbasar’s call for Misket, the ticket revenues from the gathering were transferred to the fund established for the study of these ancient seeds. The desire to preserve this heritage will be one of the key themes of the talk.

Julia Harding MW is a UK-based wine writer, editor, and Master of Wine. She earned the Master of Wine (MW) title in 2004 and has combined her background in linguistics and book editing with her work in the wine world. She has been working at JancisRobinson.com since 2005 and currently serves as the site’s Senior Editor. She was the lead editor of the 5th edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine, has served as maps editor for the 7th and 8th editions of The World Atlas of Wine, and is also involved in the forthcoming 9th edition. In addition, she is a co-author of Wine Grapes together with Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz.

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Where Does Wine Stand?

In recent years, the world of wine has been moving through a remarkable transformation. On the one hand, natural wines, old-vine vineyards, qvevri fermentations, concrete tanks, and low-intervention production methods are being rediscovered. New-generation publications and platforms such as Noble Rot, Pipette, and RAW Wine are trying to move the language of wine toward a more inclusive, more cultural, and more experience-oriented space.

On the other hand, global wine consumption is declining. Wellness culture, low-alcohol beverages, ready-to-drink products, functional fermentations, and hybrid categories are reshaping the consumption habits of younger generations.

This talk aims to discuss how wine can be read not merely as a beverage category, but as a living cultural ecosystem that is being repositioned amid the climate crisis, migration, an ageing farming population, changing agricultural policies, algorithms, artificial intelligence, and questions of cultural visibility.

Is locality still a matter of geography today, or is it taking on a different meaning in a new age in which we must enter data into the system in order to become visible? Is wine truly losing ground, or is its meaning changing?

This talk offers an invitation to think together about these questions from an interdisciplinary perspective.

Climate Change and Viticulture

Climate change is rapidly reshaping the environmental conditions of viticulture, altering temperature patterns, water availability, and the frequency of extreme events. These changes are already affecting vine physiology, phenology, and grape composition, with important consequences for yield, quality, and wine style.

In this context, viticulture is increasingly required to adopt a range of adaptation strategies, from short-term vineyard management practices to long-term structural decisions. While many solutions can help mitigate specific stresses, the most impactful responses involve choices that affect the identity of winegrowing systems, such as the selection of varieties, rootstocks, and vineyard locations.

This talk explores how the concept of resilience goes beyond adaptation, involving a deeper rethinking of viticulture systems to ensure stability, quality, and continuity under increasing climatic variability. Ultimately, the future of wine will depend on the ability to balance innovation with the preservation of identity.

“Her şarap üreticisi kendi çömleğini över.”

Every wine maker praises their own pot.

Perhaps the most important technological innovation most necessary for the development of making wine is the emergence of pottery. In the most basic sense, it provides a vessel for safely containing the liquid, but also for controlling the negative effects of oxygen. While its use started in Georgia in the 6th Millennium BC, clay vessels were the main container for wine for much of our history until their widespread replacement by wooden barrels in the 19th century. Recent trends in winemaking have seen the re-introduction of the use of clay vessels for wine production, under the frustrating categorization of “Amphora Wines”. This paper investigates the history and context of clay pots for winemaking, and the differences and possible advantages of this ancient winemaking and storage method.

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From Kerküş to Karasakız, Indigenous Grapes and Rakı

Mehmet Gürs and Cemre Torun have spent years across all their work —from restaurants and cookbooks to documentaries and conferences— looking for ways to carry local and traditional food forward. Since launching PROTOTİP:RAKI in 2020 with the aim of making a smooth and flavorful rakı, they have put the grape first, experimenting with different varieties from Antep Karası to Kerküş. This year at the Kök Köken Toprak Conference, they will share the impact of the grape in rakı, the characteristics of the soon-to-be-released PROTOTİP:RAKI LOT 5 CUPRUM, the grape variety used, and the story of how it came to be.

From Kerküş to Karasakız, Indigenous Grapes and Rakı

Mehmet Gürs and Cemre Torun have spent years across all their work —from restaurants and cookbooks to documentaries and conferences— looking for ways to carry local and traditional food forward. Since launching PROTOTİP:RAKI in 2020 with the aim of making a smooth and flavorful rakı, they have put the grape first, experimenting with different varieties from Antep Karası to Kerküş. This year at the Kök Köken Toprak Conference, they will share the impact of the grape in rakı, the characteristics of the soon-to-be-released PROTOTİP:RAKI LOT 5 CUPRUM, the grape variety used, and the story of how it came to be.

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